Valentino Fall/Winter 2020 Haute Couture Review
We’re living in unprecedented times; a worldwide pandemic, overdue human rights activism, and constant political and economic unrest is causing changes to every single person’s daily life. Thus, the fashion schedule cannot remain unchanged. Since March, in person fashion shows were deemed impossible until conditions improved. That affects the haute couture shows in Paris, which were set to take place earlier this month. Couturiers had to then look at their work and completely rethink not only how to present a couture collection, but also how to create handmade clothes of the finest fabrics during a time of social upheaval and devastation. A $100,000 handmade dress covered in crystals and feathers now seems ungodly when you think about how 27.5 million Americans don’t have any form of health insurance. Thus, its frivolous and privileged to even be discussing a couture collection, let alone create it. But in the worst of times, fashion confectionaries can usually provide escapism for the viewer and wearer, as a way to save them from the overwhelming dread of the world.
Today at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli accomplished what very few designers can: created sophistication and utter transformative beauty whilst still maintaining a sense of dignity in fashion. Piccioli transcended the couture viewing experience by creating sixteen looks using only a white and silver color palette. In collaboration with visionary photographer Nick Knight, a film entitled “Of Grace and Light” began in front of a small audience broadcast via livestream. In the film, projections of dripping colorful flowers splashed over the immense white skirts and capes made by Piccioli. The many tiers of projection and presentation added to the performative aspect of the entire collection. Instead of viewing couture in person at a show or at least through a screen, this presentation was a video of a video of a video; three layers of projection and reflection.
Collectively, all viewers saw the same thing: impossibly tall gowns on live models, suspended in air. Feathers, pleats, drapery, and silver sequins fell from the models’ waists and necklines. Hats created by Philip Treacy adorned the wearer as angelic halos made from flower shapes and delicate ostrich feathers. As the film ended, another level of separation was severed: a flat black curtain lifted, revealing the actual models in front of the live audience. Each woman was as she was in the video, suspended high above the ground either on a trapeze hoop or stilted under her ten-foot-tall skirt. Seeing each woman, proud, tall, and impossibly angelic, one can easily understand why the highest of fashion remains essential. With all the splendor and graphic elegance, the sight of these women inspires to keep fighting for beauty and the dreams of the future.
Photos Courtesy of Vogue.com