Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2019 Menswear Review
In a fantastic counter-attack on fashion's obsession with streetwear culture, Raf Simons decided to go the opposite direction, and quote Claude Montana, Yves Saint Laurent, and New Wave in his latest menswear show. Housed in a warehouse in a Paris suburb, the infamous ticks and groans of "Bela Lugosi's Dead" by Bauhaus poured over the opulent and surreal runway. A white duchesse satin widely cut blazer, taped black trousers, thick platform shoes, and beer cans in their plastic rings as a handbag defined the collection from the beginning. A blend of haute couture fabrics cut wide and colorfully with punky screen printing, safety pins, and grimy boots gave great contrast that the subculture-obsessed Raf Simons always does perfectly. His warped knitwear has been a common staple for a few season now. This time around, the knits were at first elongated and glittering. Holes began to melt into the fabric and create extra sleeves, as the v-neck stretched so far that it fell off the model's shoulders. This created a "one-sleeve" effect, revealing crisp shirting underneath covered in screen prints. Simons is also a master tailor, as seen throughout his twenty-five year menswear career, as well at his experience as creative director of Christian Dior. His clean as a board blazers and coats and pressed trousers cut just above the ankle were so pristine it almost to the point of clinical but never utilitarian. A spliced glittering red turtleneck with images of legendary punk frontwoman Jordan over a bright fuschia satin topcoat was a personal favorite look.
Photos Courtesy of VogueRunway.com