Gucci Fall/Winter 2018 Ready-to-Wear Review
The problem with this past Gucci collection was the lack of synchronicity, which seems impossible, because the brand has become known for juxtapositions in terms of styling. Usually, Alessando Michele, creative director of Gucci, has a stronger grip on taking all of his referential clothes and creating a desirable and luxurious collection. This time around, however, felt out of step and unfortunately uncomfortable. Maximal decoration and mixing of different styles has always paid off in Michele's favor, and there was plenty of that that actually did work. Decadent velvet and feathered gowns and opera coats with crystal encrusted headpieces and multi-layered necklaces are some of the most opulent examples. However, the cultural appropriation of this collection must be dealt with. Traditional Sikh turbans worn by a few white models throughout the show became an instant problem. Wouldn't it have been easier and more correct to just put actual Sikhs in the show, as a proud celebration of the turban?
Unfortunately, this is not the first cultural appropriation problem Gucci has faced since Michele became creative director in 2015. For the brand's Cruise 2018 collection, a balloon-sleeved bomber jacket with the Gucci logo embossed on the sleeves was directly lifted from Harlem couturier Dapper Dan's previous work. Since the scandal, Gucci has made amends by collaborating with Dapper Dan, and helped the couturier to open a new tailoring shop in Harlem. This is an instance where apology and repayment works, for the most part. However, this latest collection's mistakes will be even more of a challenge for the brand to fix.
Besides the cultural appropriation problems within this collection, there was also an unwelcome sterileness to the setting of the runway that didn't help the collection. The massive cacophony of period clothing and decorations in a mint green room with a single hospital examining bed just didn't blend, despite Michele's talk about Frankenstein as a reference for this show. It was all a matter of incorrect styling, separate themes and motifs that almost worked but didn't. However, Michele's creative direction has brought Gucci into a world of success on several different platforms. Its massively successful in terms of sales and social media engagement, but what's next? Maybe the "Gucci effect" is starting to wear off after three years of the the brand blending references from the past and from other cultures into their clothes and accessories. Perhaps Gucci needs to look towards the future to build a much more innovative and sophisticated brand.
Photos Courtesy of VogueRunway.com