Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2025 Menswear Review
The way Rick Owens says the word “tits” is thrilling. Owens appeared on fashion designer Bella Freud’s podcast Fashion Neurosis three months ago, and discussed creating his uniform in relationship with his own body. “I have to assault people with my tits while I can,” Owens said, his six-inch platform heels crossed and perched over the end of the couch. Sex and the physical form are intrinsic to the Rick Owens look. As much as the designer loves to drape, mold, and cover the body, flesh can always be seen poking through in the right spots.
Owens showed his menswear collection entitled “Concordians” today at his favorite venue, the Palais de Tokyo. The typical Owens horde filled an industrial, fog covered room inside. FKA Twigs attended, wearing massive brown leather accordion boots and a draped caramel dress by Owens, her long-anticipated third studio album Eusexua dropping tonight at midnight. Other guests were covered in black leather with strong shouldered coats and stomping Kiss boots, Owen’s signature. What greeted them on the runway was a booming track of David Bowie’s “Heroes” played in English, French, German, and in reverse. Owens described the song as “The constant subliminal soundtrack to a lot of our lives. What you listen to on your earbuds in an empty village train station on a cold foggy night on your way somewhere to work on a weird and wonderful future.” in a press release for the show.
What emerged was pure California sex with classic Owens industrial punk. These men had their tits and their legs out, stomping in new, even taller, boots. American style long-johns and flared denim were interpreted in nylon and leather. Owens’ longtime muse Tyrone Dylan led the pack in wet-look hair, a shoulder-padded fuzzy knit sweater, and tight black leggings tucked into those massive boots. The sweater was cut just at the nipple, sorry, the tits.
This was a collection of Owens’ essentials. A great fashion collection should be completely identifiable at its most basic pieces. Those leggings on the runway weren’t just leggings they were Rick Owens leggings, and you can tell just on the hanger. A bomber jacket is just a black bomber jacket, but there’s more to inspect. The technical fabrics used, the shoulder padding, and the shapes of the hardware make it so specific to Owens. The designer said the collection was like packing and living out of a suitcase. What are the most minimal things needed to create the Rick Owens look? Fluid flares, massive sweeping coats, plunging tunic tops, and tailoring with tight sleeves and rounded pagoda shoulders were all paired simply, not overly styled.
That new boot, a massive yet springy platform named the “Factory” took the streamlined clothes to the next step. In collaboration with designer Victory Clavelly, Owens also presented lucite-heeled boots covered in long scales that resemble hair. The scales were laser-cut leather pieces sewn to give a centaur look. The models also gripped little fold-over bags, something new to the Rick Owens runway. Some were delicate little pieces of leather while others were hard, elongated chunks of glossy acrylic. Everything’s completely desirable.
Photos Courtesy of Vogue