Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2018 Menswear Review
John Galliano's first menswear collection for Maison Margiela translated many of the aesthetic choices of the women's wear over to menswear. Galliano told reporters backstage that he's obsessed with the idea of "dressing in haste" something he began to explore in his women's Fall/Winter 2017Artisanal show, with models only wearing a solid trench and boots, with wet hair like they had just came out of the shower. There was a more raunchy undertone when this sentiment was translated to menswear. Flashers wear nothing but trench coats when exposing themselves for personal gain. Its a sexual innuendo that points to Galliano's witty references.
A hazardous yellow glyph consisting of an upside down triangle and circle inside was painted all along the usually stark white show space. It was a sickly backdrop against each of the thirty looks. Each look consisted of one color; either a primary blue, yellow, or red, a shocking orange, or a natural black, white, or camel. When pulled apart, the individual pieces were reduced to their bare bones, in a process Galliano loves called "décortiqué". This allowed the essence of a trench or a coat to be there, and filled in with clear plastic, while being able to play with proportions and interior underclothes.
A massive padded leather clutch bag called the "Glam Slam" made an appearance within this collection, in conjunction with the Spring/Summer womenswear collection, where it first debuted. That bag, in addition to the classic Tabi boots and new "SMS ("Security Margiela Sneaker)" shoes will push the brand to a leading luxury accessory authority come next fall.
Photos Courtesy of VogueRunway.com