Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear Review

Raf Simons' sophomore collection for Calvin Klein started off nearly the same way as last season, but in deeper, silkier fabrics that glided around the body. Cheerleading pom-poms hung from the belt loops. Quilts were carried by strapping men, possibly to cover dewy Friday night football bleachers. This collection is so American that it was shocking to see every single trope in one show. Cow prints, flannels, construction worker orange uniforms. Classic, blue collar, dirt-under-the-fingernails and elbow-grease Americana. For a while there was a detectable leaning away from opulence in fashion in favor of an ironic take on middle class style à la Vetements. Raf Simons played with that idea this collection, but took it a step further and brought back the glamour. Like his feathers encased in clear plastic last season, there was a slightly fetishistic and even grotesque take on the sparkly, streaming fringe and the classic 1960's silhouettes. Simons mentioned "the new American horror" backstage, with classic scary movie memorabilia like axes and buckets hanging above the audience during the show. It references Stephen King's Carrie, and one can't look at one specific dress towards the finale of the show, covered in blood red streamers, without thinking about the infamous scene. Simons is taking his new residence in New York as inspiration, as well. Car crash and knife Warhol prints repeatedly slapped on top of denim and graffitied leather coats created a dark but artistic quick history of NYC. However, the best thing about this collection was how of the times it felt. Parkas have never been cut to such a sensual shape like the ones seen at this show. Mixed media like lace and screen printed plastic were some of the best. Simons sure is getting comfortable and one can only hope he stays at Calvin Klein for as long as possible. 

Photo Credits: VogueRunway.com